Lavender Haze Tee and Shorts Tutorial
đź’ś Introduction
Meet the Lavender Haze Tee and Shorts — sweet and easy-to-wear crochet staples! 💜
This pattern is worked in a simple moss stitch and is designed to create a relaxed, comfortable fit.
Have questions? I’m always happy to help — just send me a message on Instagram @byrachforshaw.
✨ About the Design
Tee We’ll start by making the first panel and strap, then move on to the second panel and strap. We’ll attach these together to check the fit before finishing the second strap for each panel. Finally, we’ll join everything together, add the sleeves, and make the cutest little flowers to decorate your tee!
Shorts
We’ll start by creating the waistband, then work down to create the length of the shorts. Once the main body is complete, we’ll shape the leg holes before finishing with the cutest little flowers to decorate your shorts!
🧶 Skill Level
This pattern is suitable for advanced beginner crocheters.
You’ll need to be familiar with:
Working in a round
Basic stitches including moss stitch (variation of singles)
🪡 Materials
8ply/DK/Weight 3 yarn for both tee and shorts
10/Aran/Weight 4 yarn for chunky flowers
3mm/4mm/5mm/6mm hooks
Tapestry needle
Scissors
1mm elastic
đź“Ź Size
Made to measure.
🟪 Gauge
22sts x 22rows = 4"/10cm. Worked over moss stitch using a 6mm hook.
Tension and yarn choice can have a big impact on the final sizing and feel of your garment. After making your gauge swatch, please make sure you’re happy with the fabric before getting started.
For a more open, flowy feel, use a larger hook.
For a more tightly woven, structured feel, use a smaller hook.
🪡 Terminology
Written in US crochet terms
Pattern is written in English
Standard abbreviations are used throughout
BLO = Back loop only
FO = Fasten off
MR = Magic Ring
ch/s = Chain/s
ch-sp = Chain space
cont = Continue
inv = Invisible
prev = Previous
rep = Repeat
sc = Single crochet
sk = Skip
sl st = Slip stitch
st/s = Stitch/es
tog = Together
yo = Yarn over
= Repeat everything in between
[] = Stitch count - includes chains
đź’ˇ Tips Before You Start
Keep your tension consistent for the best shape
For shorts, ensure your waistband isn't too loose as it will stretch
đź“Ś Share Your Makes
I LOVE seeing your creations 🥹
If you make your own carrot bag, don’t forget to tag me on Instagram @byrachforshaw so I can share your work!
đź’Ś Pattern Notes
This is a free crochet pattern for personal use only
Please do not copy, redistribute, or sell this pattern
You are welcome to sell finished items made from this pattern—credit is always appreciated
Lavender Haze Tee
PART ONE
Panel
We will start by making the first panel and first strap, then repeat the process for the second panel and strap. Once both panels are complete, we will try it on for fit before moving on to create the second strap for each piece.
Using a 4mm hook, chain as many stitches as needed to wrap around half of your ribcage. I have included my stitch count for reference. For this part, I chained 101 stitches for a size 10-12. Your starting chain needs to be an odd number.
Ch 1, sk a ch and sc into the next ch. Rep until end.
[50]
Ch 2 and flip.
Switch to a 6mm hook. I originally used a 5mm hook, but decided a more relaxed fit worked better.
2. Sc in next ch-sp.
Ch 1 and sc in next ch-sp. Rep until end.
[50]
Ch 2 and flip.
The last sc will be placed into the ch 2 ch-sp.
3. Sc in next ch-sp.
Ch 1 and sc in next ch-sp. Rep until end.
[50]
Ch 2 and flip. Do not cut yarn on last row.
Continue until your desired length is reached, keeping in mind that we will also be adding a ribbed trim to the bottom. The panel should reach approximately your collarbone.
I worked 60 rows using a 5mm hook. As your tension and hook size may differ, you may need fewer or more rows to achieve the same length if you’re following my size.
1st Strap
1. Sc in next ch-sp.
Ch 1 and sc in next ch-sp. Rep until approximately one-third of the way across.
[18]
Ch 2 and flip.
2. Sk a ch-sp and sc in next ch-sp.
Ch 1 and sc in next ch-sp. Rep untilend.
[17]
Ch 2 and flip.
3. Sc in next ch-sp.
Ch 1 and sc in next ch-sp. Rep until end.
Work your last sc in the top of ch 2.
[17]
Ch 2 and flip.
4. Sk a ch-sp and sc in next ch-sp.
Ch 1 and sc in next ch-sp. Rep until end.
[16]
Ch 2 and flip.
Cont for as many rows as needed to reach the side of your neck. I made 7 rows.
8-12. Sk a ch-sp and sc in next ch-sp.
Ch 1 and sc in next ch-sp. Rep until end.
[14]
Ch 2 and flip.
We will now make a second panel and strap, then use stitch markers to attach the straps tog and check the fit. If you’re happy, fasten off.
2nd Strap
b. Ch 2 and rep the exact same steps on this side. FO leaving 30cm/11.8" for seam.
Rep for second panel and leave yarn attached.
Assembly
Line up your panels. Before joining, check that the stitches align correctly. The sc on
one panel should match the sc on the other panel, and the ch-2 space should match the ch-2 space.
Make sure all yarn ends are kept on the "wrong" side of your work so they aren't visible on the "right" side. Keep them on the side where the seam will be sewn.
a. Insert your hook into the first st on both sides.
b. Ch 1 and sc into same st.
c. Sc in  ch-sp.
d. (Dc, tr) in next ch.
Rep on the opposite side, leaving the yarn attached so you can cont directly onto the collar.
PART TWO
Collar Ribbing
We will now work on the “right” side. Fold your panels so the right side is facing out, making sure your yarn is positioned on the correct side before continuing.
I've opened up my collar for a closer look. Switch to a 3mm hook.
1.1. Ch 6. Sk a ch then sc x 5.
[5]
1.2. Sl st into the next 2 sts on the base.
Flip.
We will sk the sl sts when working into our next row.
2. Sc x 4 BLO. Sc in last st.
[5]
Ch 1 and flip.
3. Sc x 5 BLO.
[5]
Sl st into next 2 sts on base.
4. Sc x 4 BLO. Sc in last st.
[5]
Ch 1 and flip.
Cont on until you reach the end.
a. Fold your edges so you are working into the wrong side.
b. Ch 1 and insert your hook into the first ch on the front side and into the BLO of the first st on the back side.
c. Pull up a loop.
d. Rep for next 4 sts.
e. FO and weave in end.
Ensure this fits over your head before moving on.
PART THREE
Seam
Turn your tee inside out, line up the edges, and attach the first 2 sts tog with a knot. Switch to 6mm hook.
a. Ch 1 and sc in same st.
b. Sc the next st on both sides  tog. Cont attaching the panels tog.
c. Stop when you have enough space to comfortably fit your arm through. For me, this was roughly one-third of the way up. Make a note of your stitch count so you can match it on the opposite side. Do not cut yarn.
Sleeve
We will now create the sleeve, working into the back panel only. Continue in moss stitch. When I refer to the number of sts, I am only counting the scs. There will always be a ch 1 between each sc.
1.1. Sc, ch 1 and sk a st then sc in next st.
1.2. When you reach the seam simply ch 1 and work into the very first st on the other side.
1.3. Cont until the very last st before the side seam.
1.4. Ch 1 and sl st into the sc to join.
1.5. Ch 1 and flip.
2.1 Sc in ch-sp.
2.2. Cont until you're 7 sts past the shoulder seam.
2.3. Ch 1 and flip.
We will now work short rows to create the bell sleeve
3.1. Sk the first ch-sp and cont on with the moss stitch until you are 9 sts past the seam.
3.2. Ch 1 and flip.
4.1 Sk the first ch-sp then cont until you reach the last ch-sp.
4.2. Sc into the same st the prev row started in.
4.3. Cont for 2 more sts.
4.4. Ch 1 and flip.
5.1. Sk first ch-sp and work a sc in next.
5.2. Work until end of row. Sc into same st the prev row started in.
Cont for 2 more sts.
Here is a look at the sleeve so far.
16.1. Cont on repeating each row adding 2 sts on each side. I made 16 rows in total.
16.2. Cont on until you reach the side seam.
16.3. Sl st into first sc in row 1 to join.
Ch 1 and flip.
17. Make 1 final row.
End with an inv join.
PART FOUR
Bottom Ribbing
a. With your shirt in the right way, attach yarn to a st on the side near the seam.
b. Create the ribbing using the same steps as the collar. Chain as many stitches as needed to achieve your desired length.
Lavender Haze Shorts
PART ONE
Waistband
We will work in rows with a 4mm hook. Ch 1 does not count as a st.
1.1. Ch 11. You can chain more or less depending on how wide you would like your waistband.
1.2. Sk a ch and work a sc in next 10 chs.
[10]
Ch 1 and flip.
2. Sc in BLO of next 9 sts. Sc in last st (both loops)
[10]
Ch 1 and flip.
3. Sc in BLO of next 9 sts. Sc in last st (both loops)
[10]
Ch 1 and flip.
4-156. Rep step 3 until desired length. I made 156 rows not including my initial ch. Your row count needs to be even.
You want this section to fit snugly around the widest part of your hips once attached. It may not look very stretchy at first, but I promise it will stretch! Be careful not to make it too large, as it will stretch more than you think. We can add elastic later to bring in the waist if needed.
a. Fold your waistband over so your hook is in the back right corner (left if you are left handed). Your tail should be on the opposite side.
b. Insert your hook into the first ch on the front, then into the BLO of the first st on the back.
c. Pull up a loop and sl st.
d. Rep for all sts.
e. Open up your band and we will work into the "right" side. Please ensure the join is at the back.
PART TWO
Length
We will now work in rounds. Ch 1 does not count as a st.
I will use my stitch count for the following steps and we will use a moss stitch.
1. Ch 1 and work a sc into the side of every row. Sl st into starting sc to join.
[156]
Round 1 complete.
Ch 1 and flip.
2.1. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in next st. It should line up with the join.
2.2. Ch 1, sk a st and sc in next st.
2.3. Rep 2.2 until you reach the last sc.
2.4. At the end of every row, do not ch 1. Simply sl st into the starting sc to join.
2.5. Sl st in ch-sp to begin rnd 3.
[158]
Ch 1 and flip.
Switch to 6mm hook.
3.1. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in ch-sp.
3.2. Ch 1 and sc into next sp where our sl st was made.
3.3. Cont working in moss stitch, working 1 sc into each ch-sp with a ch 1 between each st. Without chaining 1, sl st into starting sc to join.
3.4. Sl st into ch-sp to start row 4.
[160]
Ch 1 and flip.
Continue using this method until you reach your desired length. You want the shorts to roughly reach your crotch, so it's up to you whether you prefer them more high-waisted or low-rise.
Please remember:
- At the end of every row, do not ch 1. Simply sl st directly into the starting sc to join. This helps prevent the first ch-sp of the row from becoming too large.
- Always sl st into the centre of the increase to begin the next row.
- Work (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) into the increased stitch.
- Every sc is separated by a ch 1.
- Each row increases by 2 sts.
I made 44 rows. Here is a look at the front. Make sure your row count is even.
We will now start increasing the front.
45.1. Work halfway across your row as normal.
45.2. In the centre ch-sp, work (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc).
45.3. Cont working across the second side, making sure you have the same number of scs remaining as you worked on the first side.
46-54. Cont as normal, increasing both the front and back. Work as many rnds as needed so that, when you try it on, both points meet. I made 10 rows total.
PART THREE
First Pant Leg
We will now start working around one pant leg in rounds.
I sized down my hook by half a size because I couldn't find my 6 mm. I actually quite liked the result, as it brought the pant leg in slightly so it wasn't quite as wide.
1.1. Start your rnd with only 1 sc in the increased ch-sp.
Work half your rnd as normal and stop when you have worked 1 sc in the next increased ch-sp.
1.2. Without chaining 1, sl st into starting sc to join.
Ch 1 and flip.
2.1. Sc into gap then cont on with moss st.
2.2. When you reach the end, without chaining 1, sl st into starting sc to join.
Ch 1 and flip.
3-12. Cont on until you reach the desired length. I made 12 rows total.
First pant leg complete.
a. We will end with an inv join.
b. Thread your yarn front to back through the first sc we made.
c. Then in between the loops of the last sc we made.
d. Weave in ends.
Second Pant Leg
Tie your yarn to both increased ch-sps with a knot attaching them tog.
1.1. Ch 1 and sc into same ch-sp.
1.2. Cont on as normal. Without chaining 1, sl st into starting sc to join.
2-12. Follow prev steps to finish second pant leg.
FLOWERS
PART ONE
Flowers
Switch to a 5mm hook. Leave a long tail before you start.
1. In a MR, ch 1 and work 10 sc. Sl st into starting sc to join.
2.1. Ch 3. Yo and insert hook into next st. Pull up a loop.
2.2. Yo and insert hook into same st. Pull up a loop. x 4.
2.3. Yo and pull your yarn through all 11 loops. Ch 1 to close.
2.4. Ch 3 and sl st into next st.
2.5. Rep for 4 more petals. FO leaving a long tail.
Make as many flowers as you’d like.
PART TWO
Assembly
Figure out the layout you'd like your flowers to sit in before attaching them together.
a. Using the tail, I like to thread it through the same st it is attached to so the tail is at the back. I also like to make sure the smaller tail is through the centre of the flower.
b. Pick up the stitch that is closest to the tail. Make sure not to go through both panels.
c. Thread through the large ch-sp.
d. Thread into the top of the puff st.
e. Pick up the stitch that is closest to the tail.
f. Thread through the large ch-sp.
g. Thread into the same st the puff flower is worked into.
h. Rep for every petal. Make sure both tails are through the centre hole at the end. Tie in a double knot.
i. Weave in tails through each petal.
j. Cut tail and rep for all other flowers.
Finished top and shorts.
Elastic
If you feel you need a little more cinch around the waist, feel free to add elastic to the waistband.
a. Start threading your elastic behind a st in the ribbing. One that isn't noticeable from the front.
b. When you reach the end you can either cut the elastic, tie in a knot and then weave the ends through. Or cont on for another round.
c. Weave up the centre seam.
d. Rep for another rnd.
The elastic shouldn't be visible from the front.
e. When you reach the end you can thread your elastic back down to the starting tail, tie in a knot and weave in ends.
You're all done!
I hope you loved this pattern. Don't forget to tag me.
@byrachforshaw
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